Opting out of the collar debate
These men come into my store every day, with their sets of expectations and cultural norms. Some love the big 70’s collars on various shirts I make. Some only want the no longer trendy itsy bitsy collars that make their heads appear larger than they really are. Hoping to look smart, or at least like the rest of their pack. And guilty as charged, I have been known on occasion to accommodate them as well.
Frankly I could give a flying duck. The size of the collars on my shirts are determined by what the fabric says in the context of the silhouette I am using. I just can’t be bothered to slavishly follow some arbitrary merchandizing strategy foisted off on a gullible public. I make the clothes that I want to wear, and my customers are depending on me to curate their closets for the ages. That is why I use fine fabrics, and pay attention to how my pieces are sewn. These shirts will not suddenly go out of style, nor just fall apart to make room for this years model.
So when I started working with this Blue and White checked Italian double weave cotton, I was in a quandary. The hand of this cloth is the softest, most delicious feel. The drape is more like a rayon, or a silk than any cotton I have had the pleasure of ravaging with scissors and chalk.
Having nothing to match it for contrast, and feeling it would work better as a more classic fitted shape, I decided against making the more casual and flowing weekend shirt, though the lay flat 40’s collar would have worked perfectly. As a classic however, I could not bring myself to use interfacing to stiffen the collar into a crisp shape.
But it’s summer after all, and this supper light cotton, while looking billionaire rich, could play so well as a daring casual. So voila, the collarless short sleeve classic. In XS to XL for the fine price of $120.